August Travels in South Cariboo
by Anita Fownes
Many a time we traveled Highway #97, BC's main north-south route. Not until this year, have we ventured off the beaten track to explore the Cariboo region!
Entering the Cariboo
From our stay over at Marble Canyon Provincial Campground (Thompson Region) located ½ hour east of Lillooet off Highway 99, we targeted the Historic Hat Creek Ranch as our first tourist stop in the Cariboo. The ranch is located on one of the few remaining sections of the original Cariboo Wagon Road . The 320-acre site features buildings erected as early as 1860. Admission charge was $7 for seniors, and included a 30-minute stagecoach ride. Visitors can wander the roads and view exhibits and memorabilia in the buildings. Free tours are offered at the roadhouse and the Bonaparte First Nation's Interpretation Site, which features a Shuswap Nation village beside Hat Creek.
The next stop on our trip was the Clinton Pines Campground on the outskirts of Clinton located on Highway #97, we unloaded our bicycles and headed in the direction of Downing Provincial Park on Kelly Lake .
Biking the Kelly Lake Road
Biking the Kelly Lake Road
We reached Downing Provincial Park campground at km 17 and were surprised that not one RV or camper was in sight. Pretty blue-green marine coloured Kelly Lake offers good fishing and swimming as well as a day use picnic area. Continuing south on this back road would lead along an old forestry road, past the Carson Ranch. Reaching Pavillion, on Highway #99, you have a choice to either drive to Cache Creek or Lillooet for your return to Vancouver .
However, that alternative detour was not for us, we rested under a shady tree for about an hour before our ride back to Clinton .
Bound North to Likely
Leaving Clinton behind we proceed northward to 150 Mile House (a distance of 150 km). At 150 House, we left Highway #97 and traveled northeast along the Likely Road. L akes abound in this region and are uniquely named; Cariboo Bill Lake , Frypan Lake , Jug Lake and a myriad of other descriptors. According to the Backroad Mapbook, Volume V Cariboo , this area is a freshwater fishing paradise.
Cariboo grasslands along the Likely Road
By mid-day, we chose Morehead Lake Cabin and Campsite as our stopover. Situated on the west end of the lake, the facility provides flush toilets, showers and laundry.
The next morning, as the mist rose from the lake, the sky bode a sunny day. We rented a canoe, glided our way around the shoreline. Periodically we could hear fish plunge back into their water habitant. Eventually we spotted a bald eagle resting in a tree. As it searched for sustenance, we watched quietly from a distance.
Travelling the 16 km from Moorehead Lake to Likely was a driving challenge. To avoid the myriad of potholes in the pavement was near to impossible. Red spray paint markings on the edges of the potholes served as a warning to drivers but only for about 50% of the badly damaged road.
Four kilometres south of Likely, we set up a t Cedar Point Class “C” Provincial Park on Quesnel Lake . On the grounds is a display of machinery used in hydraulic mining operations along with the remains of mining shafts on Cedar Creek.
From here our explorations took us 13 km northwest to Quesnel Forks the site of one of the last original gold mining ghost towns in BC. Road travel to this site is not for the fainthearted! The logging road is gravel, giving way to a washboard effect for the first 10 km This twisty, narrow route for the last 3km deteriorated to a steep downward grade horribly rutted and riddled with loose rocks, only one vehicle width wide. Making the slow descent we switched back and forth until we reached the confluence of the Quesnel and Cariboo rivers.
On this quiet river bench, it is hard to believe that 150 years ago, this was a bustling gold mining town of 5,000. Now a few old buildings, their twisted frames, fallen timbers and massive logs is all that remains of the town's vibrant past. The pioneer cemetery its remnants restored and well maintained by the Likely Cemetery Society, show burials as late as 1999, and as early as 1862.
The society has repaired several of the more sturdily built structures and erected wood hewn signs where the pub and general store once stood. Their efforts of restoring the cabins continue.
In the arms of the two rivers, lay an expanse of sand bars, pure green coloured rushing waters and white caps churning from the streambeds. Leaving this gentle scene, we climbed into our van and made the slow and arduous climb back to the Likely Road.
Stay tuned for the continuation of traveling the south Cariboo with Anita & Ron in the next issue RV Guide.
The Island RV Guide would like to thank Anita & Ron for their article.
