RV'ing with Peter & Ann Vander Sar

  The Oregon and California Coasts

Introduction

This article follows one in the May/June edition of the Island RV Guide . We reviewed preparing the RV, and discussed things to do and places to see as far South as Fort Canby ( Washington ) State Park at the mouth of the Columbia River . In this article we continue down the West coast through Oregon and into California , on our way around the periphery of the US – a trip we've done a couple of times, originally as “the big retirement tour”. Our perspective here is that of fall or spring travel in a 22' class C motor home hauling a little Toyota Tercel.

The Oregon Coast

Crossing the Columbia River on a bridge high enough to allow passage of large ocean-going vessels – and so subject to high winds- takes one to Astoria, Oregon. For our driving money, the scenic views of cliffs and beaches makes the Oregon coast the most spectacular in North America ! Numerous state parks along the way are open all year — check it out by writing or on the Internet. There are many places to boondock, especially towards the south. We find the Oregon coast so scenic and interesting that sometimes we travel as little as 50 miles a day.

Places

Seaside , Oregon is a little beach town that reminds me of Coney Island . Park at the edge of downtown and walk to the concrete boardwalk and have an ice cream, candy-apple, or breakfast along the way. The large cheese factory in Tillamook has a very interesting tour, and makes excellent cheeses, including an extra aged that is Ann's favourite. The ocean loop road from Tillamook is rough at the beginning where it has great views, but then winds between crowded fancy houses without much view. Hwy 101 itself is quite pretty in this area, winding through farms that supply the cheese factory, with some great ocean viewpoints further south. Lincoln City has a 65-store outlet mall and good seafood restaurants. Yachats is the place to stop if you want to buy and prepare your own seafood. Along the river at North Bend is the Coos Bay Casino where you can watch ocean-going ships go by, try your luck on the slot machines - and park overnight.

Parks

Beverly Beach State Park , a few miles north of Newport , is a little dark and not very spacious, and it is on the land side of the highway. However, there is a walkway to the beach and you can walk along several miles of broad, sandy beaches.

Carl G. Washburne State Park , south of Yachats, is also in the trees, and not really close to water. After looking it over on one trip, we decided to stay close by at the Sea Perch Campground instead. This is a private campground at mile 171 just south of Yachats. It is more expensive than a state campground, but we think it's worth it — you park right next to the ocean, and can take mussels right off the rocks at low tide. (Not living on the Island , we found out the hard way not to eat them right away. Leave then in a bucket for a few hours so that they get rid of some of the sand. It's easier on your teeth.)

The ocean loop from North Bend has several state parks: the campground at Sunset Bay is a bit tight and darkish and a good walk from the beach; Shore Acres State Park consists of beautiful gardens (in season) on the site of an old lumber-baron's estate and is well worth visiting; Cape Aragos State Park has great views of seal-covered rock islets.

Bullard's Beach State Campground, just south of the Coos Bay area loop, is quite pleasant, but it is not on the beach. It does, however, have a paved road to the beach area and the breakwater and lighthouse at the mouth of the Coquille River . Waves hitting the pier can make for a spectacular show.

From the Coos Bay area south to the California border, the shore is less rocky and more “beachy”, with most state parks intended for day-use. However, there are a few with limited winter camping facilities. There are several places to boondock, some “official” with a nominal charge.

The California Coast

Continuing south along highway 101 you enter the great state of California , which has some of the busiest and some of the most peaceful places on the continent.

As far back as 2003 cutbacks in California resulted in reduction of facilities such as rest stops, and in July 2004 many fees for parks and similar sites were increased. There have been no increases since then and prices in the 2005 Trailer Life Campground guide (our bible) are correct, $9-$25 a night depending on the season and type of site. The campground guide does not go into details on which kind of sites are in each park, and when the seasonal rates change, and neither does the California State Park site on the internet .

Big rig owners are probably aware of restrictions on RV's over 40 feet on some coast roads and highways crossing the coastal mountain range. Restricted routes are well documented on the Internet and a map is available from the State Highways Department. Towed vehicles are not counted when calculating length.

Northern: Oregon border to San Francisco

Route 101 , much of it four-lane, comprises the route closest to (but not always on) the coast about half-way to San Francisco : further south it goes inland and highway 1 becomes the coastal highway.

Around Crescent City is the “ Redwood Coast ” federal and state park area comprising heavily wooded hillsides and long beaches, with many campgrounds. Jedediah Smith Park on highway 199 just off the coast features camping under huge 200+ year old redwoods: it's a bit dark, and manoeuvering around the huge tree bases is a challenge, but it's a unique camping experience. For primitive, isolated, but gorgeous oceanside camping, try the Gold Bluff's Beach campground, part of Prairie Creek State Park . It's about five miles off the highway on a road most suitable for smaller RV's but trailers are not allowed.

The stretch between Leggett and Willits was among the first to feel the pinch of state budget reductions. Instead of a rest area, you may have to take a break at a small town grocery store. It's a great chance to say hi to some of the folks whose state you are visiting, and you can always use some groceries. We find the premium is worth the experience. Ferndale , off Hwy 101 South of Eureka, is a touristy but very pretty Victorian era village, with a reasonable county campground. The road to Ferndale is good, but the rest of the coastal loop shows on maps as being of lower quality and may not be suitable for RV's so we've not taken it.

South of Fortuna, between the Pepperwood and Phillipsville exits, the 32 mile Avenue of the Giants Auto Tour parallels hwy 101. The scenic drive with lots of interpretive stops winds through stands of huge redwoods in Humboldt State Park . It is suitable for RV's, but longer units may have trouble parking except at the visitor centre.

Highway 1 becomes the coastal route at Leggett to practically the Golden Gate Bridge . Scenery ranges from coastal spectacular in the northern part to surprisingly pastoral further south, then to hilly, busy suburban. With many spectacular vistas and stopping points come steep hills and tight turns that call for very careful driving. One must not be afraid of heights to enjoy Highway 1 in Northern California , or hairpin curves – the reason RV's over 40 feet are not allowed.

There are inexpensive boondocking campsites just after highway 1 reaches the coast, but they can be a bit windy and coolish being only tens of feet from and a hundred feet above the ocean. Further south there is an interesting lighthouse/museum at Point Arena . Point Reyes National Seashore looks good on the maps, but it caters more to San Francisco day-trippers than snowbirds. There are few government campgrounds in the area, the private ones are somewhat pricey, and the towns are too small for Wal-Marts. So plan ahead to manage your campground budget!

San Francisco is the place everyone one HAS to leave at least part of their heart in, and unfortunately part of your wallet's contents has to follow. Having said that, DO spend the extra money and visit San Francisco at least once during your travels. Ride the unique cable cars and streetcars, shop and snack along the wharf, and take the ferry to Sausalito for lunch (cheaper than a tour). You will not regret it, the kids will never know the difference when your estate is settled, and government can't tax the enjoyment you got out of the money you spent, unlike that paltry bit of interest it was collecting in the bank.

It takes at least $50 US per night to overnight within “easy commuting” distance of downtown. That sum will allow you to stay in a cozy (i.e. park in a crowded ) spot in a parking lot) along the coast in Pacifica , about 10 miles south. Alternatively you can stay in state or county parks 50 miles north, south or east and visit from there. The state park in Half Moon Bay, 30 miles south along the coast was our favourite: it has just been rebuilt with only 50 sites (all for smaller RV's) so chances of getting in poor. Reservations are highly recommended for government parks in the San Francisco area.

Regular big city driving rules apply, i.e. avoid rush hour and stick to main routes. This is even more so in San Francisco because of the relative paucity of freeways near the core and touristy area, and those famous hills.

 

Central: San Francisco to Los Angeles

The scenery along Highway 1 ranges from rolling hills to spectacular vistas. While the road is winding and shoulders are narrow, driving here is much easier than along the north coast. You still have to be careful and not be afraid of heights, but it is well worth the effort. 40+ foot rigs are prohibited between Carmel and San Simeon.

Take the highway all the way from San Francisco to San Louis Obispo. Most of it is quiet while the more crowded areas have compensations. Santa Cruz , for instance, has a great walking pier, and an old-fashioned beachside pavilion area complete with a merry-go-round that lets you try for the brass ring. In Capitola you can have an oceanside drink or a meal with a picturesque view of multi-coloured cottages that remind one of the Mediterranean . Combining the two in a California Champagne brunch can make for an unforgettable experience.

The Aquarium in Monterey is truly world class. It's not inexpensive, and can be crowded on weekends and holidays, but where else can you view the activity in a three story salt-water aquarium, see shore birds at fifteen feet, or otters floating in the seaweeds at a hundred? Like us, you'll probably visit more than once if you get the chance. Just a little further South in the artistic and elegant community of Carmel there are more pretty things to shop for than most of us can afford - like playing golf at Pebble Beach nearby.

Further south there are miles of ocean scenery, often seen from many hundreds of feet up. Big Sur is legendary. There are some small state parks in the area, but we recommend driving on to San Simeon State Park and using it as a sightseeing base for a night or two, as we have. For some reason this park is not listed in the campground guide but the California Parks Website shows that sites close to the beach currently cost $20 per night. However for $11 a night you can “camp primitive”, ie boondock, up the hill a quarter mile away yet still have pay showers close by and free access to the dump facility.

Besides walking along the beach and within the park, attractions nearby include beaches just to the north where large herds of elephant seals congregate in late November and December. They can be close enough to reach out and touch - but don't! Volunteers on hand will tell you all about these lunks, their travels, and their love life – all very interesting, especially their travels.

The Hearst Castle nearby is another California MUST. Take the cheaper, shorter overview tour for starters: some great views, and fascinating stories. As in most such places, the early riser is most likely to get into a tour without a reservation, and likely has fewer fellow tourists to contend with. You can then take a more in-depth tour later in the day if you wish. Cambria is a pleasant little town just south of the campground with many antique stores, restaurants, and souvenir shops, touristy but not too much so.

Continuing on, plan to at least stop by the side of Morrow Bay for coffee or lunch and the view of the picturesque islands just offshore. Nearby are several state parks with camping facilities, including beautiful Montana de Oro, named for the California poppies that cover the hills. It has primitive sites only, with RV's and trailers limited to 27 feet. Highway 1 joins 101 for a while at San Louis Obispo, and then goes its own way again at Pismo Beach . This is where the Monarch butterflies that live east of the Rocky Mountains migrate to. It's a fascinating sight: tens of thousands of butterflies hanging out (or down) to meet and greet – somewhat like the elephant seals. The state park next door had lots of room when we last visited in November.

Though busy, the Highway 1/101 combination to Los Angeles is worth exploring in its own right. Solvang , a tourist town with a Scandinavian theme, is the original home of the “Pea Soup Anderson” restaurant chain. There are many state campgrounds next to the ocean on the way to Ventura . From there traffic is quite heavy, but seeing the “shacks” at Malibu in person is much more impressive than seeing them in movies, and it's much more interesting to watch part of the California lifestyle live in and on Venice Beach and Manhattan Beach than on TV.

The greater Los Angeles area, with its Hollywood , Disneyland , not to mention shopping and dining can be visited with an RV, but that's probably not the best way. Plan your trip well if you're driving through, probably on Interstate 405 and/or 5. The WalMart Rand McNally Guide contains a good map of the area, and you can purchase a separate freeway map from the AMA or BCAA– free if you're a member of course.

  Southern: Los Angeles to San Diego

The coastal area from Long Beach south is very built up as far as San Juan Capistrano , where Interstate 5 becomes the coastal road, and you can see if the swallows have come back to the mission. ( California 's missions are destinations in themselves: watch out for signs along 101, the old mission trail.) San Clemente and San Onofre State Beach in this area are also campgrounds. Arrive early, as they can easily fill up especially on weekends. Sites are small and not very private but we found them great places to rest, sit in the sun and walk the beach after Los Angeles . But stay alert: driving the freeway south through Camp Pendleton requires you to keep the pedal to the metal to keep up even on Sunday afternoons.

Then there are more state beaches (some with campgrounds) on the way to San Diego, a city that we have come back to several times. Besides beautiful parks, there are many tourist attractions, including Seaworld and the world-class San Diego Zoo. We like to stop in “old town”, though it is quite “touristy” (perhaps it's the size of the margarita glasses) and walking the grounds of the Coronado hotel. Getting around and parking an RV at these places can be a challenge, but there are lots of buses and streetcars. The transportation “hub” is the restored Mission style railway station, which is only a five-minute walk from the waterfront area (itself an attraction) where parking is plentiful and easy.

The railway station is also the starting point for the “Tijuana Trolley” the fast streetcar or LRT to –you guessed it – the border at Tijuana . Now, if you've been to Mexico many times you may dismiss it as just another dirty border town. If you've never been to Mexico , and heard about it, you may be apprehensive about visiting. Don't be. We've lived on both sides of that street, and still visit whenever we are in San Diego , for the experience and . the shopping. Unless you take a tour, it's about a mile walk to downtown, which can be hot so take a hat. Better yet, buy a straw hat from one of the many vendors along the way. They are very glad to help you – too much so if you are unused to it. But you can always say “No, gracias!” and be on your way.

So now you've run out of west coast in the US , and have to cross the mountains to get to southern California , Arizona and beyond on that circle tour of the US . More about those areas in our next article!